A train window at night with lights blurring past and a cup of something warm

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Honest Review: Taking an Overnight Train Instead of Flying

The overnight sleeper train sounds romantic until you're in a six-bunk couchette next to someone who has a bag of crisps and opinions about train travel. Here's the full, unvarnished picture.

I took the overnight train from Vienna to Rome last autumn. In my head it was going to be a 1930s murder mystery: a private compartment, dinner in the dining car, a porter bringing pillows while the Alps slid past the window in the dark. In reality I had a second-class couchette bunk, the top one, which meant climbing over two people to go to the toilet at 3am, and there was no dining car — just a vending machine at one end of the train and the philosophical implications of that.

I also arrived in Rome at 9am having saved a night’s accommodation, seen the Italian countryside at sunrise, and spent approximately a third of what a flight would have cost. So.

The Full Comparison

Let me be specific about what you’re actually comparing.

FactorOvernight trainMorning flight
Journey time (e.g. Vienna–Rome)~11–14 hours overnight~2h flight + 3h airport total
Effective time lost0 (you sleep)~5–6 hours of your day
Accommodation cost savedOne night (€60–150 typically)None
Carbon footprint~10–20x lower per kmHigher
Comfort (private sleeper)Genuinely good, hotel-adjacentEconomy flight equivalent
Comfort (couchette, 6-bunk)Functional, not luxuriousAbout the same as a budget flight
Comfort (seat/recliner)Worse than bothProbably worse
Ticket cost (Europe)€30–180 depending on class and route€40–200 depending on timing
Romance factorObjectively higherThere is no romance on a 6am flight

The Classes: What You’re Actually Buying

Private sleeper compartment (1 or 2 berth): This is the good version. Your own room, often with a window, sometimes breakfast included, definitely lockable. Costs more — roughly €100–200 per person on major European routes — but you arrive rested and have effectively paid for a budget hotel on wheels. The ÖBB Nightjet (Austrian rail) and Trenitalia’s sleeper fleet both run these. Worth it.

Couchette (4 or 6 berth): Shared compartment with fold-out bunks. This is the middle option. You get a pillow, a sheet, a berth to yourself. The berth is narrow. Your compartment-mates are random. It’s fine. Pack earplugs and a sleep mask. It’s fine.

Seat (reclining or regular): This is the option you take when you didn’t book in time. It’s worse than the plane in comfort terms, without the saved accommodation cost to compensate. Avoid if you can.

When the Overnight Train Wins Clearly

City-center to city-center routes. Unlike airports (which are 45 minutes outside the city in a taxi that costs €50), train stations are in city centers. You arrive in Rome Termini, not Rome Airport. This alone removes 1.5–2 hours from each end of the journey.

When private sleeper pricing is comparable to flight + hotel. Run the numbers. Flight €80 + budget hotel €70 = €150. Private sleeper €140. The train wins on cost and is better on experience.

When you’re carrying luggage. Trains let you put a suitcase in the overhead rack or under the bunk. No baggage fees, no check-in, no carousel. Just roll on, roll off.

Routes through spectacular landscape. The Bernina Express in Switzerland, the Caledonian Sleeper through Scotland, anything crossing the Alps. These are experiences, not just transport. You can’t see the sunrise over the mountains from 37,000 feet.

When the Overnight Train Loses

When there’s no sleeper option. A seat-only overnight train is a mediocre experience. Stick to planes if that’s all that’s available.

Long international routes where the time doesn’t work out. If the overnight train takes 16 hours and you’d lose the daytime too, the time math stops working in the train’s favor.

Budget airlines with super-cheap short hops. A €25 Ryanair flight versus a €40 couchette is a different calculation. The plane wins on pure cost; the train still wins on totality of experience if you account for time in airports.

FAQ

Do I need to book far in advance? Yes. Private sleeper compartments sell out weeks or months ahead on popular routes (Vienna–Rome, Vienna–Paris, etc.). Couchettes are more available but still book faster than you’d expect. Use rail.cc or Trainline for a price-and-availability view across operators.

Is there Wi-Fi? Inconsistently, depending on the operator and country. Plan to be offline for most of it. This is also part of the appeal, if you’re the kind of person who responds to that pitch.

What about travel by train within a whole region? An Interrail pass (for Europeans) or Eurail pass (for non-Europeans) makes multi-country train travel significantly cheaper, including overnight trains. Worth calculating if you’re doing multiple night trains in a single trip.

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Portrait of Mathieu Marchetti
Mathieu Marchetti

Travel Writer · Hamburg

Mathieu Marchetti has been charming her way through the Balkans since 2018, of the firm opinion that a good hotel bar is a legitimate sightseeing destination. Otherwise, Mathieu is a UX researcher with a deeply chaotic camera roll. Currently based in Hamburg.

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