[ ITINERARY · THE DISPATCH ]
Four Days in Tokyo and I Still Don't Know What I Ate
Four days in the world's most overwhelming city — in the best possible way. Vending machines, mystery meats, shrines next to arcades, and that one moment when Tokyo suddenly made sense.
My fourth morning in Tokyo, I ate something from a vending machine outside Shin-Okubo station that I’m fairly certain contained fish paste, strawberry jam, and ambition. I don’t regret it. I don’t fully understand it. That, I came to learn, is the correct relationship to have with this city.
Four days isn’t enough for Tokyo. Forty days probably isn’t enough. But four is what I had, and here’s how I made it count.
Day 1 — Land, Don’t Die: Shinjuku
You’ll arrive jetlagged and slightly feral. That’s fine — Shinjuku is built for feral. Drop your bags, grab a coffee from a can (the Boss Café Au Lait is iconic for a reason), and walk. The east side gives you Kabukicho and Golden Gai, a maze of tiny bars each holding about nine people and one extremely opinionated bartender. Pick one at random, order whatever they recommend, and surrender.
Dinner: Omoide Yokocho (“Memory Lane”) — smoke-filled yakitori alley behind Shinjuku station. The skewers cost almost nothing. The atmosphere costs nothing. The smell will follow you home.
Day 2 — Old Tokyo: Asakusa and Ueno
Senso-ji Temple in the morning before 8am is a genuine moment. After 10am it is a very long queue. Wake up early or accept the crowds — both are valid life choices.
Wander Nakamise-dori for the snacks (ningyo-yaki are little cakes shaped like pigeons, they’re perfect), then walk north into Yanaka, Tokyo’s preserved neighbourhood of narrow lanes and temple cemeteries. It’s quiet in a way the rest of the city rarely is. Get a cream puff from the little shop on Yanaka Ginza. Stand there eating it. That’s the whole plan.
Afternoon: Ueno for the Tokyo National Museum if you like art. Skip the zoo unless you have children with you and also no feelings about sad animals.
Day 3 — Harajuku, Shibuya, Daikanyama
Takeshita Street in Harajuku is either a joy or a nightmare depending on your crowd tolerance. Go before noon. Meiji Jingu forest right next door is the antidote — one of the great city parks anywhere.
Then Shibuya crossing. Yes, you have to do it. Yes, it’s worth it. Watch from the Starbucks window above if you want the photo; walk through it if you want the feeling. Both simultaneously is impossible, which is what makes it interesting.
Evening: Daikanyama is Shibuya’s quieter, cooler sibling. Small boutiques, excellent coffee, Tsutaya Books (a bookshop with a café attached, perfectly designed to make you stay three hours).
Day 4 — Tsukiji, Odaiba, a Good Goodbye
Tsukiji outer market for breakfast — the tuna nigiri at Sushi Dai will take some queuing, but it sets the bar for the rest of your life. Odaiba is technically a man-made island and technically a bit touristy, but the view of Rainbow Bridge and the bay is legitimately good.
Spend your final evening in Shimokitazawa, Tokyo’s neighbourhood of vintage clothes, basement live venues, and the general feeling that everyone around you has interesting creative projects they’re not telling you about.
Where to Stay
| Budget Tier | Neighbourhood | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Budget (¥5,000–8,000/night) | Asakusa | Central, character, great metro access |
| Mid-range (¥12,000–20,000/night) | Shinjuku | Everything walkable or one stop away |
| Splurge (¥40,000+/night) | Marunouchi/Ginza | Palace views, impeccable service |
| Quirky | Anywhere with capsule hotels | The Millennials Shibuya is actually lovely |
FAQ
Is 4 days in Tokyo enough? Enough to fall in love, not enough to understand it. Come back.
Is Tokyo expensive? Less than you think if you eat where locals eat (convenience stores, ramen shops, izakayas). The metro is cheap and excellent.
What’s the best area for first-timers? Shinjuku for convenience; Asakusa for atmosphere. Asakusa by a nose.
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